Our sister company based in Chamonix in the French Alps is a perfect location to start
your expedition training and gain valuable mountaineering experience.
Operating year round, we organise Mont Blanc, Eiger and Matterhorn trips as well as
skiing in the winter.
Our sister company based in Kathmandu can organise your personalised trekking trip in Nepal.
This is a chance to trek with our experienced Everest Sherpas utilising the same
logistical care that we use on expeditions.
Dispatch covering 31st May to 3rd June
Days 65 through 68
Correspondent: Tony Kelly - Climber
Safe Retreat from the Camp 2 trap, ABC, BC and departing for Kathmandu. The Expedition has come to a close.
For further information and different perspectives on our expedition see coverage also at:
- capgemini.co.uk/everest2000
- mountainzone.com
- earthtreksclimbing.com (a perspective from Chris Warner, mountain guide)
3rd June - Day 68
Written today looking back retrospectively from the relative comfort of BC on the last couple of days of the expedition.
Earlier Comms. problems are now resolved and we are back up with our generator, computer, satellite phone combination. Sorry for the delay and lack of continuity.
31st May - Day 65
On the 31st we grabbed a slight lull in the wind strength at around 2:30pm and bailed out of C2 at 25,000ft on the North Ridge. We drove hard all the way down to C1 on the North Col but our progress was limited by the speed at which Andy could belay Chris down as a human avalanche trigger. A great job done ploughing the road by the guys. We were all carrying large packs with as much of the equipment as we could save as possible. Its fair to say that although my load was heavy it was not in the block of flats category that the sherpas and Andy and Chris were packing.
It was getting towards twilight as we hit the Col having had no major avalanche incident thanks to Chris the human avalanche bomb. I had left a tiny gap between the top of my goggles and my balacalva and the warm sting of wind burn was apparent. But luckily no frost nip.
It was a long slog down from the Col and as we reached the glacier full darkness fell meaning a couple of hours return across the glacier and down the moraine fields to ABC was a torch light affair (not as romantic as it sounds I'm afraid, especially after the adrenalin pumping, exhaustion making escapades of the day).
We staggered into camp (at least I did I'm pretty sure everyone else walked in normally) with me at the end of the line at 9:00pm on the evening of the 31st.
Safe!
1st June - Day 66
There was only one thing on the agenda for me and that was rest with major rehydration. On the 2nd we have the 22km hike down to BC and it promises to be a killer slog especially with legs still like jelly from recent meanderings.
Whilst we had been successfully wrestling with life and death on the mountain and Russ was worrrying about getting us off he was also wrestling with the huge glacial lake that had developed at the meeting of the Rongbuk and Changste glaciers. The solution was a real boyscout special with 4 oil drums and planks and rope. Bit of a lash up, not really, highly effective if a little unstable with Six Foot plus climbers on it. Of course its still means several tonnes of ABC has to be manually portered down to the lake and pulled across since convincing yaks to stand still on the raft has not proved successful.
2nd June - Day 67
Chris, Andy, Graham and myself make the long hike down to BC and relative comfort. Certainly there's more oxygent down here and its at least 10-15degC warmer, though still unseasonably chilly. Still better than the freezing conditions still prevailing at ABC.
3rd June - Day 68
The four of us get cleaned up and pack ready for a 2 day 4x4 drive starting at 6:00am tomorrow through Tingri, Nyalam to Xangmu (stop over, its a hell hole) and then across the border into Nepal at the Friendship Bridge an on to Kodari and then Kathmandu, arriving the 5th June.
Its been outstanding and at times a nightmare, its always been interesting, great mountaineering, meeting great people (and some weird ones!), travelling through new and fascinating terrain in new countries, sometimes its been depressing but mostly its been exciting.
Was it a success. Well we didn't reach the top, inspite of two valiant attempts. But if that is the only criteria then we failed. But you can't go through all we went through and all we achieved with this great bunch of guys and call it a failure. We had an amazing and wonderful adventure and some of us may be back to complete unfinished business in the not too distant future. Fantastic.
Tony Kelly
Base Camp - 5300m
The Rongbuk
Everest 2000 - North Side