The Himalayan Experience Everest Expedition members met in Kathmandu on Thursday 01 April 99

The members of the team come from several different countries, but have proved to be very compatible and well experienced for the undertaking of the ascent of Everest via the North Ridge in Tibet.

Members are:
Kazuhiko Kozuka Japan
Kunitsugu Kobayashi Japan
Geoffrey Robb Australia
Helga Hengge Germany
Kenneth McConnell Australia

The climbing team is led by New Zealander, Russell Brice.

A small group of trekkers joined the expedition members to the Base Camp.

Susan Robb - Australian (Geoff's wife)
Don Spary - New Zealand - visited the Advance Base Camp

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Russell's Staff
I have the normal 5 very strong High Altitude Sherpa staff:

Loppsang Tember Sherpa
Phurba Tember Sherpa
Karsang Sherpa
Sonam Tember Sherpa
Narwang Sherpa
Along with the HA Sherpas I have a great team of BC & ABC staff.
Lachhu Basnet
Kul Bardur Basnet
Chhimi Sherpa
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Log
03 April

All the members fly to Lhasa to spend three days sightseeing and acclimatizing.
05 April

Russell and the Sherpas drive by truck from Kathmandu to the boarder town of Kodari
06 April

The members drive from Lhasa to Zigatse. Russell and the Sherpas cross the boarder to Zangmu and then drive to Nylam.
08 April

The members stay in Tingri for acclimatization. Russell and the Sherpas drive to the Base Camp.
09 April The members drive from Tingri to BC (5,200m 17,060ft)
12 April

The important religious ceremony called "Puju". The local Rongbuk Monastery monks visit the BC and pray for the safe keeping of the Sherpas and members during the expedition. Susan also begins her return journey to Kathmandu.
13 April

Russell and the 5 HA Sherpas along with 32 yaks begin the walk to the ABC. They establish the Interim Camp (5,800m 19,028ft) where local yak man Chuldim will look after the camp for the duration of the expedition.
14 April

Russell and the Sherpas establish the Advanced Base Camp (6,400m 20,997ft).
15 April

Geoff, Helga and Don go from BC to Intrim.
16 April

Ken, Kozuka san, Kobayashi san, Sumiyo and Lachhu along with 32 yaks go to the Interim camp
17 April

Sumiyo, Kobayashi san, Lachhu and the yaks reach the ABC, whilst Kozuka san and Ken (the doctor) stay for another night for acclimatization.
18 April

Kozuka san and Ken reach the ABC and in the meanwhile Russell and Don go back down to the Interim camp. The start of Don's return to Kathmandu. The Sherpas carry their first loads to C1.
19 April

Russell and Don return to the BC, and then Don drive to Zangmu. The Sherpas carry their second loads to C1.
20 April

Russell returns to ABC to join all the other members who have all acclimatized very well and are now preparing to make their first visit to C1 on the North Col (7,000m 22,965ft).
The Sherpas have their first well deserved rest day.
21 April

Russell and the sherpas do a carry to the North Col where the sherpas stay the night. They do the trip in about 2 1/2 hours without stops which is about half the time the rest of us would take.
22 April

The members have their first trip to North Col. The ice wall to NC is about 350m in height with fixed ropes all the way. It's a matter of jumar in one hand, pulling a bit with the rope in the other hand, then taking steps in between rests. All members successfully made it, with some carrying a token sleeping bag as a symbolic gesture for the load carrying effort. During the descent it became very cold and nasty with a minor storm hitting. The sherpas returned to ABC.
23 April

A rest day for all. Russell and the sherpas were planning to fix ropes up high to C4 but the weather report blows this apart with a forecast of 50knt (62.5mph or 100kph) winds up high for the next 5 days.
Our cook, Lacchu has cooked at all 14 8000m peaks with the exception of Nanga Parbat. This is probably a record which can't be broken in view of the restrictions now imposed by Pakistan. The Swiss group are creating a nuisance for all as they have camped on top of the main path and are unnecessarily forcing large detours.
24 April

Ken, Helga and Geoff do another trip to the North Col. Strenuous for all except the sherpas and Russell who do another carry.
At ABC, although it is generally sunny, the wind never lets up. The sun goes down at 4pm and the temperature plummets.
25 April

Once again the sherpas carry a load to NC while we members rest. NC is now getting fully stocked with rope, sleeping bags, gas, cooking equip, oxygen, all for up high. It is up to the members to take their own food.
26 April

While the sherpas rest(!), the 5 members and Russell are going up to NC to sleep. Up the ice wall again with heavier packs. NC is protected from the wind by a huge serac that has developed over recent years. Everyone has finished their meals snow melting with lights out by 7pm.
27 April

It's a long night as most of us don't sleep much, if at all, being our first night at 7000m.The sun breaks early at NC and it's very pleasant there, but Russell gets us moving early. We eventually set out on a walk up the North Ridge towards C2. The North Ridge is a steep snow slope that is exposed to huge winds. It is very strenuous and cold battling these winds but Ken does well to get to C2 (7500m), and the rest of us turn back earlier. It's a long way back down to ABC.
28 April

Helga and Kobayashi san head down to BC for a much needed rest. The sherpas are trying to fix rope from 7800m, but the winds will probably force them to come down.
30 April

A rest day for all. Russell spends the morning trying to convince a few recalcitrants that they should contribute to the cost of the establishment of the fixed ropes. Weather is freezing but no real snow.
1 May

Hopefully about half way through the trip. The sherpas, the fabulous fearsome five, carry to NC. We unfortunately hear that one of our tents at NC has been damaged with the tent inner and contents going over the edge. The wind dies down in the evening and we get our first snow.
2 May

Russell rescues the tent half way up the ice fall. Geoff and Kozuka san head up to C1 while the sherpas do a carry to C2 (7500m).
3 May

Geoff and Kozuka head up to C2 where Purwa joins them. The wind is constant and freezing fingers are a problem. Ken goes up to NC. The sherpas continue to supply C3.
4 May

Geoff makes it up to C3 (7900m) and even holds the tent while the sherpas are erecting it. Only another 1km to go, but the first and second steps seem just up there. Ken and Russell make it to C2 as Geoff, Kozuka and the sherpas descend. A blizzard hits, but there is no real danger as its just a matter of following the fixed ropes down. At NC a cup of tea and bread encourage the decision to go down to the comforts of ABC even though there is a whiteout. New snow makes the descent more difficult on the steep slope.
5 May

Helga is coming up from interim to ABC. Ken and Russell are attempting to get up to C3 but the wind is likely to defeat them. The rest are enjoying a rest at ABC. Ken & Russell make it to C3 and return to ABC. We hear that several people reach the summit on the South Side.
6 May

Helga is going up with Sonam on her final acclimatization trip.
Geoff and Kozuka accompany each other on the 22km walk back to BC. Ken follows a little later after his medical rounds, and Narwang also comes down due to some tooth problems. Some creeks have risen significantly and it is much warmer at BC. Lacchu has bought a lot of chickens from Zangmu, but they seem to need breast implants. Together with fresh tomatoes and apples, they are a delicacy
7 May

Kobayashi goes up from BC after a long rest. Helga goes to C2.
Ken, Geoff and Kozuka enjoy Lacchu's happy holiday camp.
8 May

Kozuka wants a bath and goes down to Zangmu for a few days. Also with him are some Belgians (who are uncertain whether they can pay for the fixed ropes up high). The Ukrainians are on top of the 2nd step early and heading for the summit but the weather does not look good from down here. BC is bleak and windy for the rest of the day. Helga gets to C3 then back down to ABC. It snows a lot at BC and ABC. We even put the gas heater on in the middle of the day.
9 May

It's blowing a gale. Everest has changed from a rock pyramid to a snow cone. The American group is pretty happy about finding Mallory's body although all they have done is film Everest's cemetery.
3 Ukrainians summitted yesterday but only 1 found his way back to top camp in the storm. Helga and the sherpas go down to BC for a rest.
10 May

1 of the Ukrainians is missing (dead), and Russell co-ordinates
his 5th above 8,000m rescue for the other one. Our oxygen and resources are used up high. The Ukrainian is carried back to ABC and arrives at 2.30am. Our mess tent is used as the hospital. The wind continues to howl.
11 May

The Ukrainian will survive minus some appendages. Russell comes down to BC. Ken, Helga and the sherpas go for a walk to the Rongbuk monastery. Kozuka arrives back in the evening from Zangmu with a broad smile.
12 May

Russell is back at BC and all but Kobayashi (at ABC) are down resting. Geoff, Helga and the Sherpas are paying a visit to the old Rongbuk monastery, just an hour from our camp. An old Lama gives us the tour of the ruin where many Buddhas and Milarepa have left their foot and finger prints. We climb through an old cave winding under the rocks - through hell and into heaven - as the lama instructs us, lighting many butter lamps and praying for safe passage on the mountain for our team.
The hot shower is working full steam and at night Everest stands as elegant as ever in the sunset - as if nothing ever happened.
13 May

Wind and cloudless day in paradise on the moraine. Our camp is buzzing with news from summit attempts on the Southside, where the weather is quite different from here, but no one knows who really made it and the rumours run wild. Ken, Geoff and Kozuka are leaving for Interim Camp after lunch. Kobayashi comes down in the afternoon from ABC and announces that he will leave the expedition - he is going home.
14 May

Lachhu, Karsang and Helga leave early for ABC - and after three hours in the sun a light snowstorm accompanies them all the way up to ABC - and that is why the Sherpas and Russell wait another day before they go. Geoff, Ken and Kozuka came up from Interim. Tonight everyone at ABC is hugging around the heaters it is so cold and the snow keeps coming.
15 May

Brilliant sunshine and spa morning at ABC. Russell and the Sherpas are coming up from BC in only five hours and a bit. Light snowstorm in the afternoon. The American climbers are spending their second night at 7800m and everyone is praying for good weather. Coughs are going around, ours have started socializing more to pass the long days waiting.
16 May

Wine and cheese before lunch, as long as the sun shines. Many climbers - a lot of resolute, rugged individuals - are off onto their summit bids as rumours of two good weather days have circulated around camp. Many are going for non-stop climbs from here directly to the summit - speed ascents? - but it has snowed much these last days which will make it hard. The Americans are at camp 8300m and will also go to the summit tonight. We are all staying at ABC, Russell doesn't like the weather pattern yet. We take the time to practise our oxygen masks and regulators...
17th May

All the action today is in the American camp where two climbers are live on their radios climbing the Second Step being filmed. Also, Eric is being interviewed - it is quite a scene - we recreate it in our kitchen tent to much laughter... we'll see it on TV in a few months. Russell is standing by directing the way, since he's been up there many times already, when the Americans can't find the ropes in the thick snow. None of those rugged individuals has made the summit, most have quietly come back to ABC and vow to try again. There are not many Messners after all who can just walk up there without oxygen and bag the summit. We have a plan to maybe summit altogether instead of making two teams since it is easier to get two good days than four in a row. Looking at the 25th right now.
18th May

Ken got an emergency phone call from home and leaves right away. We loose our favourite doctor and a great and fun companion. The Americans are through with their cheering and pack up to go home. Most of the unruly Swiss are out as well but many others are starting up the route for summit bids. We are packing food and getting ready - not tomorrow but one of the next days. Readiness is all. We already miss you Ken.
19th May

On May 18, 3 Polish summitted around 2pm, but stayed 1 1/2 hrs doing media interviews! 2 Belgians summitted late at 4.15pm. Only 1 of the 5 got back to top camp that night, 1 walked in the next morning, and 1, the Polish leader was rescued at the first step lunchtime the next day. 1 Pole and the Belgian leader are dead, with 1 being seen on the wrong route and then falling down the Great Couloir.
Once again, these were under resourced teams, which did not turn back when they should have. Most of these summitted without, or ran out of, oxygen (we have 5 bottles each), without sherpas (we have 2 each incl Russell), without fixed ropes (we will have more) which can guide you down. They put other peoples lives and summit chances at risk when they need rescuing. Russell, as usual, was heavily involved in co-ordinating the rescue effort and our equipment was used.
We have the South Africans to dinner and Helga organises a Swiss fondue which is a pleasant change
20th May

We look like remaining at ABC for at least another couple of days, so our summit date is uncertain. The weather is very unstable, snow showers here every day and high winds up high.
Everyone has now come off the mountain and are down at ABC. The Italians and Tibetans gave up their bids due to high winds. About half the teams have gone or are going home.
21st May

There is a good forecast for 4 days time and a summit decision will be made tomorrow morning. Not much is happening as everyone is waiting; washing, card games, reading, eating and drinking consume our time.
22nd May

The weather forecast continues to improve with winds dropping significantly on May 26. Russell decides an extra day here would be better, so at this stage we are definitely going up tomorrow. Hopefully the wind may also be a little lower on the exposed ridge between C1 and C2. It may be another week before this web page is updated again!
23rd May All members climb up to C1 (7,000m)
24th May All members climb up to C2 (7,500m) and the Sherpas move up to C1. Russell is unwell so returns to ABC.
25th May Members and Sherpas climb up to C3 (7,900m). Everyone is sleeping on oxygen at this camp.
26th May

Members and Sherpas climb up to C4 (8,300m) Members are using oxygen to climb and everyone is using oxygen to sleep on.
27th May

Members and Sherpas have paired up. Geoff with Karsang, Helga with Loppsang and Kozuka with Phulbur. Everyone sets off at 01.00. It is warm with no wind and an almost full moon. By 03.00 everyone is at the First Step and moving well. There is a great sunrise as the team reaches the Second Step.
At 06.45 Geoff and Karsang are on the summit. About half an hour later Helga and Loppsang reach the summit, and an hour after them Kozuka and Phulbur reach the summit. This is the third time that Karsang has summited from the North, and the second time for Loppsang. This is the first time that Phulbur has summited on Everest.
Geoff and Helga return easily to the top camp where they have drinks before moving on down the mountain, Geoff to C1 and Helga to C2. However things are not going so well for Kozuka who has insisted on using oxygen from C1. He is very slow returning to C4 and needs assistance from Narwang who has been waiting at C4 all day. It is not until early evening that Kozuka, Narwang and Phulbur return to the top camp. Karsang and Loppsang return to C1 at the North Col to meet with Russell and Sonam who are there clearing part of the camp. They continue to descend to ABC by moonlight.
28th May

Geoff returns to ABC for breakfast, however things have deteriorated on the hill. During the night Narwang and Phulbur are asked to go and assist another team who are late returning to the top camp from the summit. Then having worked so hard all day Phulbur discovers that he has snow blindness. He had lost his glasses at the second step.
He makes his way down the ropes to C2 during the night arriving at 05.00, and hence waking Helga with a start. Loppsang and Karsang climb back up the mountain to assist. Karsang goes to C3 where he meets with Narwang and Kozuka. Loppsang helps his friend Phulbur down to ABC along with Helga. They arrive early afternoon. Karsang, Narwang and the exhausted Kozuka arrive back at ABC in the evening. A celebratory dinner lasts until late in the evening.
29th May

Rest day for all, and a rapid recovery for Phulbur. Russell is packing rubbish from many of the other teams who departed today. Plans are made for the return to Kathmandu.
30th May

Helga and Geoff will return to BC whilst Kozuka recovers enough to walk the distance. The Sherpas and Russell will return to C2 and C1 to collect the remaining equipment and remove the fixed ropes. They hope to remove everything that remains in one day. On 31st Kozuka and Lachhu will return to BC while Russell and the Sherpas pack the ABC. On 01 June the yaks will arrive at ABC and on 02 they, along with the Sherpas will return to BC. Another day of packing and loading the trucks ready for departure on 04 June. On 05 June the team will leave Zangmu and Tibet and will arrive back in Kathmandu.

The end of another successful Himalayan Experience expedition to Everest.